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The Jordanian table

"The guest is the hostage of his host," says an old Arabic saying. Before you go to Jordan, do not hesitate to lose a few pounds. And do not worry ... you will take them back once!

The pleasures of the table are at the forefront of those waiting for you in Jordan. If, in the Arab world, it is unthinkable not to feed a visitor, it is clear that Jordanians respect this age-old tradition. Their proverbial hospitality pushes them to offer what they have best, whatever their means. As a rule, they do not skimp on the quantity and serve at least double ration to the guest. Decency requires that he eats all that is presented to him. He will swear his great gods that he has a full stomach, nothing will do. His host will remain steadfast and will re-serve. If meals seem too rich, say that this kitchen is healthy. Indeed, the dishes consist mainly of fresh vegetables, garlic, herbs, spices and olive oil. They are complemented by yoghurt, lebaneh (a semi-dehydrated yoghurt with the consistency of fresh cheese and a flavor similar to that of sour cream) and tahini (crushed sesame seeds). With limited ingredients, Jordanian cuisine has produced an infinite range of combinations, all more delicious than the others.

Influences - Jordanians readily admit that they have appropriated several preparations from the Middle East, including Lebanon, Syria, Palestine and Egypt. The ones you will find most often are hummus , ful mutabal , falafel and tabouleh. Considered as snacks, they are offered everywhere. Accompanied by a bread that is reminiscent of the pita and serves as a spoon, they are used as an aperitif or go into the composition of muqabalat (mezze), an assortment of diverse and varied dishes. In this area, flexibility is required. The hummus , for example, can be enjoyed at breakfast or dinner. The mezze can also be a whole meal. The important thing is to share. Especially the lunch, the main meal of the day, which brings together the family at large for at least 2 hours. And during this time, the world can run to its loss!

The classics - Usually, the meal consists of a lamb stew or chicken served with rice. Among the most popular dishes are mouloukieh (chicken and green vegetables), bamieh (meat accompanied by okra with tomato sauce) and masakhen (chicken served on a "sofa" of shraq , a very fine bread, covered with golden onions in oil and sprinkled with sumac, a red spice with a lemony taste). If you have cracked on the maqloubeh (literally "spilled"), here is the recipe: fry pieces of chicken, lamb or fish with oil; Ditto for vegetables - Jordanians love aubergine and cauliflower; In a vegetable-lined earthen bowl, alternate a layer of meat, a layer of vegetables and raw rice before adding broth and placing in the oven. When the rice is cooked, turn the container over a large dish and serve. Jordanians and Palestinians love fatteh : pieces of bread covered with a mixture of meat and vegetables, then drizzled with yoghurt or cold tahini . You will have the choice between fatteh hummus , fatteh makdous (eggplant and minced meat) and fatteh djaj (chicken). Only seasoned cooks go into the preparation of stuffed vegetables, which require a lot of time and a very precise job. If a Jordanian serves you wara dawali ( grape leaves stuffed with rice, ground lamb, ghee , nutmeg and cinnamon) or cusa mashi (zucchini stuffed with the same ingredients), know that He treats you as a distinguished guest.

Mansaf, national dish - Jordanians claim paternity of mansaf , a classic of Bedouin cuisine they have elevated to the rank of national dish. Typically, this party dish is a roast lamb served on a bed of rice and steaming shraq , generously garnished with jameed (hot yoghurt) and sprinkled with snobber (lightly pan-fried pine nuts). . The head often sits at the center of the immense plateau on which the mansaf is brought. The eyes and the language, pieces of choice, are reserved for the guest. The rules of decency want him to consume these pieces of choice, whatever he thinks ... The mansaf accompanies the big occasions: the presence of a personality, a birth, a marriage or the return of parents after a stay at the l 'foreign. In fact, it is not a simple dish, but a very complex ritual. Strict rules for its preparation and tasting. In the Bedouin tradition, the quantity varies according to the respect conferred on the guest. The average size of the cuts of meat should correspond to that of a "cat's head". The cutting of the animal is the exclusive responsibility of the host. Sometimes the guests stay up. Difficult as it may seem, they use only the right hand to form compact dumplings, in which they hold bread, rice and meat. According to the precepts of Islam, the left hand should never come into contact with food. The height of their skill, they use the thumb, forefinger and middle finger to throw this meatball into their mouths without touching their lips or other fingers. If one of them scrapes the bottom of the dish, the host will understand that he was a bit chick on the amount.

Mezze or muqabalat - Hummus Mashed chickpeas with tahini (crushed sesame seeds), lemon, garlic and olive oil. This is the basic component of muqabalat . For many Jordanians, it is a complete meal. Baba ghanoush Mashed eggplant cooked with charcoal. Mixed with tahini and garlic, she is sometimes called mutabal .
Falafel Lightly spiced and fried dumplings, often with garlic, parsley and onion, usually served inside a hot pita with t ahini and salad. Without a doubt the most popular snack - and the most popular - in the Arab world, it is consumed anytime, but especially at breakfast and early in the day, after a party. The best falafels are golden and crispy on the outside, and green - a sign of freshness - on the inside.
Ful moudames Commonly called " ful ". Over time, this poor meal - boiled beans, garlic puree, lemon juice and olive oil, all presented with bread - became a breakfast-served dish in all social classes, and allowed to start the day well. In Jordan, many hotels offer it as part of an Arabic breakfast. In the early hours of the morning, you will see many street vendors pulling out large metal containers with lids to satisfy their customers' appetites.
Koubba maqliya Oval dumpling , also called kibbe , which consists of mashed meat and bulgur, stuffed with spicy minced meat and pine nuts. Delicious hot, when she barely leaves the frying. Its preparation requires a certain skill: the smaller the pellets, the finer the golden envelope, the better the cook is. The best are served at home rather than at the restaurant, sometimes sprinkled with a yoghurt sauce.
Vine leaves Stuffing with rice and / or meat, herbs and spices.
Ma'ajanat Any preparation surrounded by ajin (dough) such as fattayer and sambusak (stuffed with meat, Nablus cheese, herbs, spinach and sumac).
Manakeesh Flatbread dotted with oregano and sesame seeds.
Sfeeha Minced meat and spices on a cooked dough base.

Main dishes - In terms of flavor and taste, nothing beats the char-grilled meat skewer as it is being prepared in the Middle East. The restaurants decline it in:
Shish taouk Boneless chicken pieces, drizzled with lemon juice and sprinkled with garlic. Delicious and low in fat.
Kofta kebab Chopped and spicy lamb.
Mussakhan This "sandwich" of Palestinian origin consists of a kind of brioche bread, chopped onion, baked chicken pieces, pine nuts and a good dose of sumac.
Shawarmah The Jordanian equivalent of the Turkish döner kebab . Fine slices of beef, lamb or chicken cooked on a spit and served in a pita with tahini and marinated vegetables.
Shish kebab Cubes of boneless lamb or beef.
In the cities of the Dead Sea, including Aqaba, you will enjoy fish, shellfish and crustaceans of irreproachable freshness. In Amman, on the other hand, you will find that seafood is not consumed much. In general, the fish is fried or cooked in charcoal, or even in court bouillon, as in the famous sayadiya (accompanied by rice and lemon sauce).

For dessert - As often in the Middle East, sweets, homemade or not, are queens. All excuses are good to offer or consume in astronomical quantities (especially during Ramadan, religious holidays and weddings). In the eyes of gourmands, pastries have an air of Ali Baba cave full of delicately presented products. Baklava, which exists with several fillings, remains the most consumed: puff pastry, ground almonds, walnuts or pistachios, thick syrup with honey and lemon juice.
Konafa Hair of fried angels, then presented with nuts or, slightly salted, with cheese.
Ataif Recipe that dates back to the Middle Ages; small pancakes with walnuts or cottage cheese, sprinkled with a thick syrup (reserved for Ramadan).
Ma'amoul Pastry with nuts or dates, baked and soaked with rose water.
Mahalabiyya Cream with milk and rice flour, perfumed with rose water or orange blossom.
Qatayif Fresh cheese cake, served hot and drizzled with syrup. Do not miss the mastic ice cream. Made with sahlab powder (an orchid root) and gum arabic (a resin that gives it its elastic texture), it is often embellished with walnut chips.

Tea and coffee - A meal can not be concluded without tea or coffee. In addition, Jordanians are heavy consumers of infusions. Some of them will be particularly enjoyable after a good mansaf : anise to calm the nerves, fennel seeds to avoid aerophagia, chamomile to clear the sinuses, thyme to soothe cough, sage and mint to facilitate digestion. In winter, sahlab , ground pistachio, cinnamon and rose water are often used for hot milk. " Sahtain ! "(" Two health! ") Will launch the Jordanians after these feasts. The dream, for a stomach too solicited!

Restoration

Kitchens - Arabs eat less often outdoors than Westerners. For them, maintaining the social bond involves an invitation to dine at home. In addition, they attach extreme importance to family cooking. When a Jordanian goes out to a restaurant, he expects to eat as well as at home. With this, Amman has a multitude of restaurants that serve excellent oriental dishes. Many of them specialize in Lebanese cuisine, considered the most refined in the region. After a week or two of mezze, falafels and kebabs, some travelers crave other flavors. Formerly, Amman was criticized for its lack of culinary diversity. In recent years, the taste of the capital in this area has expanded considerably - a phenomenon that can be explained by the demand for a large expatriate population. Amman is home to restaurants specializing in kitchens as diverse as Armenia, Thailand, Mexico or Vietnam. Many of these international establishments are among the best in the city. In the provinces, the choice is drastically reduced, except in very tourist areas, like Petra. Taking advantage of the immoderate taste of the Middle East for fast food, American chains have deployed their heavy artillery. Every corner of the street is occupied by a McDonald's or a Burger King. The establishments are as varied as the kitchen itself. Great restaurants abound with the tiny street counters offering the Arab equivalent of fastfood: falafel served in a flatbread. Between these 2 extremes, there are fish restaurants, at the entrance of which the arrival of the day is exposed, grills, whose scents of meat tickle the nostrils of the passers-by, and restaurants where the dish of the day is presented on a plastic plate. Vegetarians will not be frustrated. The mezze has many vegetable-based preparations, including hummus and baba ghanoush . It serves as an entrée or main course. In summer, many restaurants set their tables on a terrace or in a garden. Be aware that Jordanians tend to eat quite late: lunch around 14h and dinner around 21h. However, the establishments open at 12:30, or even earlier, and around 19:30. During the month of Ramadan, many of them remain closed. The others are only used after sunset, when the fast is broken. Some offer special menus. Hotel tables and most major establishments add 10% service and 16% tax to the bill, which significantly increases the price of the meal. In Jordan, and especially in Amman, the restaurant business is constantly changing - even more so since the economic crisis, which has forced some houses to close. Receptionists at major hotels are a wealth of information. Taxi drivers also know the right addresses, especially with regard to Arabic cuisine. Try the Deyafah's Dining Guide , which lists the best restaurants in the country. Published in 2011-2012, it should be reissued and updated in the future. It is on sale in the bookstores of Amman.


Oriental Fast Foods - While walking through the city, try to spot chain establishments like Al Kalha and Al Jabri, as well as SAJ restaurants. Their delicious shawarmah (a kind of kebab) and their muqabalat (the other name of the mezze) are prepared with ingredients of absolute freshness. Their dishes are to consume on the spot or to take away. In general, each neighborhood has at least one. Taxi drivers know them all..

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