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Great little dishes

Aesthetics, freshness, flavor, everything mixes here to achieve the perfection of what must be called the great Japanese culinary art.

To claim that today's Japanese people are eating well is a myth. If a dietician could have found nothing wrong with their old diet, consisting of whole rice, grilled fish, tofu and fresh vegetables grown in the mountains, their current food -sel and sugar to excess, white rice and loans post-war conditions that are not conducive to a balanced diet - is unsatisfactory, leading to an above-average number of stomach cancers and a multiplication of diabetes, particularly among young people. Many Japanese people eat prepared meals, and the country ranks among the world's largest importers of beef. Vegetarians, here, remain on their hunger, few restaurants interested in this type of clientele. However, healthy foods, consistent with Japanese traditional tastes and available everywhere, continue to adepts.Les cuisine, the regions play a crucial role, but also the seasons. Many Japanese are able to walk for miles to test a particular local specialty, whether it's an ekiben box bought at the station or an exquisite dinner savored in a provincial ryokan . Impossible for a guide like this one to cover the multiplicity of the receipts of the Archipelago. For all tastes, even a Japanese should devote his entire life. In the city, the embarrassment of choice is not an empty word. Two types of places stand out from the crowd by their authentic atmosphere: the izaka-ya , a kind of bistro, and the taishu-sakaba , a larger tavern. Both like to hang a garland of akachochin over their door. These red lanterns indicate a traditional place where you will find food and drink. As for the specialties, even a sumotori would not do the trick, from fish fritters to crustaceans through grilled meats, tofu, yakitoris (skewers), fried rice balls and sashimi.

Kaiseki ryori - If you only have to try one type of cuisine in Tokyo, do not hesitate: nothing can compete with kaiseki ryori , a series of small dishes with centuries-old origins, artistically served in restaurants or restaurants. ryokan . One downside: the authentic kaiseki ryori is expensive, very expensive. The object of a meticulous preparation obeying aesthetic as well as gastronomic rules, it constitutes an art in itself, and requires ingredients of an irreproachable freshness. The flavors of kaiseki ryori come from the foods themselves and not from spices, sauces and other additives. The Japanese cuisine focuses primarily on perfumes, their nuances, and the presentation of dishes. A chef will always favor natural tastes and will do everything to preserve them.

Noodles - Popular among Japanese people, noodles are divided into 3 categories: soba , udon and somen . With buckwheat, the soba is fine, brownish and very consistent. The udon , wheat, are characterized by their whiteness and thickness. Wheat noodles also, the somen rather evoke vermicelli. The udon usually accompanies a hot dish, while soba and s omen are indifferently cold or hot depending on the season. Another very special kind of noodles, hiyamugi are eaten exclusively frozen. They look like the udon , though much finer. You'll find soba everywhere, really delicious if their buckwheat has not been too thin in other flours. Soba is often accompanied by wasabi (grated horseradish root), chopped fresh onions, and mirin sauce (sweet sake) and katsuobushi (dried bonito chips). In this particular form, served zucchini on a zaru (bamboo tray), zarusoba make a summer meal both delicate and tasty. Rich in vitamins C and B1, the soba are all the more nutritious as buckwheat prevails on the sobako (wheat flour). With the first heat, everyone appreciates the somen . Their delicate scent is suitable for many dishes, especially when accompanied, according to the tradition gomoku (5 flavors), pieces of omelette, chicken and vegetables; but they are also eaten " gomodare ", with eggplants, fish and shiso (aromatic herb); or with swallow hard fruits and eggs; or " hiyashi ", that is, iced, with nothing more than a soy sauce with sesame oil. To get refreshed and refreshed on a hot summer day, it's difficult to find better. In cold weather, the Japanese will naturally prefer the udon , served in soy soup with an egg, fresh onions and various vegetables. Unlike soba and somen , udon do not need sauce. Perfect when the wind blows, they warm as much as they "hold" to the body. As for ramen , these Chinese noodles are so successful in Japan that it would be criminal to pass them over in silence. They are very hot in soy broth and other ingredients - bamboo shoots, slices of fresh onions or roast pork. Any family refrigerator contains "instant" ramen . The squeezed Japanese will always find time to stop at a tachiguisoba-ya , a sort of soba counter. You will see them in all the stations and even sometimes on the docks. Their prices are not a deterrent: ¥ 200 for a kakesoba , a simple soba soup; a little more for an endama-soba with raw eggs and various mixed fried ingredients in tempura; not to mention the soba (donuts), kitsune (fried tofu), tanuki (croutons), tsukimi (raw eggs), wakame (seaweed) tempura, and the list goes on .

Sushi and sashimi - The eye and the palate converge in a common pleasure when it comes to sushi or sashimi, both based on raw seafood. A good sushi restaurant is both expensive and confusing if you do not know what you are looking for. Try the kaiten sushi-ya instead, where small dishes of sushi parade on a treadmill. Certainly, the principle lacks elegance, but at least you can watch it twice, and make your first try for a low price. A good sushi does not support the to-almost. The ingredients demand an irreproachable quality, the rice calls a perfect cooking. Thawed fish would be a shameful scam. If you prefer the rice-free version, order sashimi, thinly sliced ​​raw fish artistically served on a platter usually served with small bowls of sauce.

Nabemono - In autumn, and until spring, place the nabe-ryori - pot to which each region reserves its particular recipe. The aroma of nabemono is inseparable from the coldest months. Ishikari-nabe (Hokkaido) brings together onions, salmon, Chinese cabbage, tofu, konnyaku (potato jelly) and shungiku (chrysanthemum from Sicily); the hoto (Yamanashi) incorporates udon , daikon (white radish), ninjin (carrots), gobo (burdock), lemon juice, onions, Chinese cabbage and chicken; the chiri-nabe (Yamaguchi) is not conceived without its fugu ( puffer fish), accommodated with Chinese cabbage, mushrooms, tofu and starch noodles.

Bento - Like all modern countries, Japan could not escape the fast-food virus. But he cleverly adapted it by slipping it into a lunch basket - the bento, or obento . You will find in mini markets or bento-ya , which offer a wide choice to take away. The bento box, shallow, is divided into several compartments hosting rice, condiments and other dishes. You can also put anything - even spaghetti, sausage or burger. The bento gets carried away at work, at school, on a picnic or during the holidays. Raised to the rank of art, a very special form of bento is favored by connoisseurs: the ekiben ( eki = station, and - ben for bento). In Japan, the train occupies the same place as work or sleep in everyday life. Trips usually include stops long enough to allow travelers to get down to buy their favorite meisanbutsu (local specialty) - starting with the omnipresent ekiben , which they enjoy in their compartment.

Tsukemono - A meal is not conceived without tsukemono , pickles with Japanese sauce. These little marinated vegetables probably go back to the time when it was necessary to preserve food in anticipation of unavoidable shortages. It was during the Edo era that tsukemono took their present form, giving birth to specialized shops, tsukemono-ya . The ingredients used depend on the seasons, with a high proportion of Chinese cabbage, bamboo shoots, turnip, kyuri (Japanese cucumber), hackberry, daikon , ginger, nasu (Japanese eggplant), udo (sort of asparagus) and many more. other.
Tsukemono add their colors to a meal while deploying a wide range of textures, from crunchy to sticky. They also clean the palate and prepare it for new flavors. Between 2 sushi, for example, nibbling a piece of nyoga (ginger) rids the mouth of the oily aftertaste of an a ji (mackerel) to better enjoy the delicate scent of an ebi (shrimp bouquet).

Culinary calendar - Which says freshness, says seasonality. Spring brings fresh fish, mountain vegetables, lotus rhizomes, butterflies, astragalus and chrysanthemum leaves to the plates. The dishes are usually accompanied by some Sichuan pepper leaves and rice dotted with chopped aromatic herbs. In summer, ayu , a tasty river fish, comes to all the tables with tuna and horse mackerel. In this wet weather, icy wheat noodles and cold tofu with grated ginger are all the rage, while autumn is more like a season of unique dishes, like yudofu - tofu warmed in hot water and served with a sauce. soybean and lemon juice, Japanese sea buck, crab, oysters and snacks made from chestnuts and persimmons. In winter, it is the turn of the teriyak dishes, chicken in mind, to treat palates, not to mention the sardines, carp and amberjack of Japan.

On the terrace - The Japanese like to have lunch or dinner outside, and even when the temperatures begin to fall, some establishments continue to serve on the terrace, heated or protected from the cold by a transparent plastic curtain. Outdoor restaurants, yatai favor a cozy atmosphere. Customers eat there sitting down after ordering their menu at the counter. Some oden stalls (Japanese stew) also have chairs and tables, tiny, for their customers.
Fukuoka, in northern Kyushu, is distinguished by the diversity of its yatai - especially in Hakata - which, in an intimate atmosphere, offer local specialties - tonkotsu ramen (Chinese noodles in a soup made from pork broth sprinkled with garlic), tempuras, barbecue kebabs-and, for the finest of them, salted bream, Japanese sea bass, or even steaks.

Nibbling - The Japanese are constantly snacking, starting with rice crackers called sembei , which they consume at tea time and between meals, or rice balls ( onigiri ), the favorite snack of people hurry. Other snacks of choice: yakitoris, chicken skewers and grilled vegetables, to accompany a cold beer; oden , a cake of fish and vegetables stewed in broth; Okonomiyaki , a Japanese-style pizza that combines on a dough made with flour and yeast bean sprouts, cabbage, carrot, chicken breast, shrimp, grated ginger, dried bonito crumbs and seaweed and yam from China, between other fillings.

Cuisines elsewhere - Often revisited to adapt to the Japanese palate, Western recipes have some success. Here, spaghetti is enjoyed with seaweed or natto (fermented soy beans) as a garnish, steaks with rice, and continental breakfasts with salad.
Since the British Kobe introduced curry powder in the archipelago in the nineteenth century, the Japanese love curries. The English one, less raised than its Indian equivalent, ranks at the top of the list of culinary loans accommodated with Japanese sauce. To the despair of the Indian community living on the spot, the Japanese serve curry with glutinous rice and fukujinzuke , an assortment of 7 different vegetables sliced ​​and marinated in a sweet and salty soya sauce. The kare-udon consists, for its part, in a dish of udon noodles served in a thick curry sauce, moderately spicy.
In addition, fruit from elsewhere, such as fig, banana, papaya, mango or loquat - a non-native species contrary to what its name suggests - embellish the Japanese basket. Some others adapt in an original way, like the strawberry, imported by the Dutch in the 17th century, which is consumed with cream in the form of sandwich.

Desserts - The Japanese have long enjoyed Chinese confectionery, but since the arrival of Europeans between 1500 and 1640, Western sweets and cakes are also enjoying great success.
Dessert is usually a fresh fruit or anmitsu , a set of cubes of jelly (agar-agar), azuki bean paste , water-cooked peas and canned fruit, to which are often added ice cream, shiratama dango (sweet rice flour dumplings) and a black syrup, also sweet, called mitsu .
The Japanese treat wagashi is most often savored with matcha , green tea powder, or at the end of a meal. The main ingredient, the year , consists of a dough composed mainly of sugar, azuki beans and sweet potato. Wagashi comes in two forms: namagashi (raw), with a paste made from rice flour; higashi (hard and dry), made from sweet powder. The ingredients and decorations of namagashi vary with the seasons. Yokan jelly is very popular and is prepared with mashed beans and kanten (agar-agar).

Good manners - Foreigners are not required to know the label, but if you want to make a good impression, it is better to stick to it. When you enter a restaurant, the staff gratifies you with an " irrashaimase !" (Welcome). Answer with a smile. Know, moreover, that oshibori (hot towels) are not meant to wipe your face, but your hands.
The Japanese eat with chopsticks. To do without it is considered rude. If you share a dish with other guests, except for nabe , use the clean ends of your chopsticks. Do not plant them straight in your rice; this gesture evokes the rice offerings made to the deceased at the funeral. At the counter, you can eat sushi with your fingers, not at the table. Do not hesitate to make noise by swallowing your noodles; it would improve the taste. The broth is drunk, him, directly to the bowl.
Unless you buy a snack at a vending machine, you will pay at the end of the meal (tip is not charged). Eating on the street or in the metro, even if it is done more and more, is pretty frowned upon.
When you consume alcohol, never serve yourself unless it is beer and you have filled the glasses of other guests beforehand. Let your host do it before giving him the courtesy, and think about raising your glass slightly.

The art of taste

The Chinese eat with their stomachs, the Japanese with their eyes, says a famous saying. A cliche ? Not that much ...

Obsessed by the presentation, at the limit of the ritual, Japanese cuisine encourages contemplation before consumption. A concept that places pleasure as much in the eye as in the palate.
Color plays an important role, as evidenced by the san-shoku , a soba recipe combining 3 types of buckwheat noodles: browns, whites and greens. The pickles also dare the association tricolor - purple, green and white. The presentation of the food favors asymmetry, so that a round fish will be served preferably on a long and narrow plate.
The chefs will stop at nothing to create an aesthetic effect. Thus, the pink and yellow rice cake called "the beautiful Tango Bay" has the shape of a chestnut bug and the name of a picturesque landscape described in a compilation of poems of the eighth century, the Manyoshu .
In the spring, wagashi (traditional pastries) are sometimes decorated with a cherry blossom pattern; in the fall, from that of a chrysanthemum. The dishes are often in tune too. During the summer, glass plates and bamboo dishes are inviting on chic tables, giving way, in autumn and winter, to stoneware or ceramic pots and wooden plates decorated with maple leaves. Other fresh leaves come with the seasons to embellish dishes as beautiful as good ...

Restore

It would take an entire guide to cover all the riches of Japanese cuisine. The restaurants storm streets, sometimes invading buildings, even blocks, whole. You will probably not have to look far to find a good table. And if a McDonald's, a bento formula or a cafe tempts you more, stroll along the streets; You'll be spoiled for choice.

The price of pleasure - Since the economic bubble burst, in the late 1980s, Japan is struggling to get out of the recession. However, these persistent difficulties have had at least a positive effect, at least for both the traveler and the average Japanese employee: fierce competition throughout the restaurant sector, marked by the advent of affordable menus. All the establishments, even in the most expensive districts, like Ginza in Tokyo, continue to practice tariffs sometimes very attractive.
The Japanese tend to buy their meals - especially for lunch at their workplace - in mini-markets like 7-Eleven, AM-PM or Family Mart. These stores are competing mercilessly: dishes prepared the same day - although their flavor can not claim a star in the Michelin Guide - and prices studied, many "lunch packs" not more than ¥ 450. Many restaurants also go for their lunch set specials , for a maximum of ¥ 600, while fast food restaurants offer ¥ 350 menus.
Popular restaurant chains like Denny's, Cocos or Volks offer the second free coffee, but do not rank among the cheapest, far from it. Tipping remains the exception in Japan, a significant saving in the long run.
Generally, do not expect to make a proper meal for less than ¥ 3000 per person, excluding drinks. On average, in the most upscale neighborhoods, dinner costs ¥ 10,000. To avoid ruining yourself, choose mid-range restaurants, i zaka-ya , street stalls and mini markets.
Please note that some establishments, especially those in the higher price range, charge 10% to 15% service. Others, like the izaka-ya (bistrots) or those of medium range, are satisfied with a supplement of a few hundred yen.
If you just want to have a drink, without having to order a dish - which most isaka-ya do not like - choose a tachinomiya , a bar where you eat and pay, most often, draft beer or ¥ 300 sake glass. Another possibility is Western-style pubs, which are ubiquitous in big cities where, apart from happy hours (15h-17h), the pint is worth at least ¥ 800.

To each his specialty - In Japan, it is not the restaurants, bars, cafes and bars that are missing. Entry-level, local fast-food restaurants , such as Yoshinoya, whose specialty, gyudon , consists of a bowl of rice garnished with beef stew and onions, or his colleague, Matsuya, who serves also curry rice for a handful of yen.
The teishoku (restaurants offering only menus) - they are legion and Tokyo, alone, lists some 150,000- are a notch above in the culinary hierarchy. Their family cuisine -riz, condiments and miso soup with fish or breaded pork chop - is a misfortune at lunch. Competition requires, especially in large cities, a meal worthy of the name will usually come to under ¥ 800. This price range includes a host of other restaurants with diverse and varied specialties. A whole year would not be enough for you to test everything. Plastic food or photo dishes can help you-or get confused. Trust your eyes, your flair, and enter.
In the evening, the izaka-ya invite you to have a drink and taste all kinds of dishes without breaking the bank. To each region, its local specialties; you are not at the end of your taste surprises. Many restaurants specialize in a recipe or cooking style. It reigns, in general, a more refined atmosphere than in the typical izaka-ya , all in a traditional setting. Depending on the culinary genre in effect, the bill may vary dramatically. If you can afford it, treat yourself, at least once during your stay, to a kaiseki ryori- style dinner, an anthology of Japanese gastronomy.

Good Japanese manners - The list of Japanese manners would fill a phone book. Here is an excerpt:
The oshibori (wet towel) provided at the beginning of the meal serves only to wipe your hands; roll it carefully when you are finished. And be sure to use it for something else, even if you see some dabbing your face before tackling their meal.
Do not stir your chopsticks in all directions, do not point them to someone, do not take them to push your plate, and refrain from planting them straight in your rice (bad omen). If you have to share a dish, use the end of the chopsticks that you will not have brought to your mouth to serve you. A rule of etiquette that everyone else does not follow.
The suimono (soups) and noodle soups (except the ramen ) are sipped discreetly in the bowl, without spoon. You will only appreciate their flavor better. As much noise is tolerated when it comes to noodles, as it turns out to be inappropriate in the case of a soup.
For food with sauce, such as tempura or sashimi, hold the sauce cup with one hand and dip the food with your baguettes. Soy sauce does not spread on a dish. It is poured sparingly, several times, into the cup provided for this purpose.
You will rarely see a Japanese man eating and walking at the same time - even for a simple snack, he will find a place to sit properly - or eat and drink in a subway or suburban train.

If you are having lunch or dinner with Japanese people, it's fashionable to wish itadakimasu (good appetite) before you start - whatever your pronunciation - and to thank your hosts, or the staff at the exit of the restaurant, by a deshita gochisosama (you have prepared a feast) at the end of the meal. To toast, raise your glass and say kampai .

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