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Gastronomy

Much more than a local variation on the great classics of neighboring India, Sri Lankan cuisine offers a range of recipes and flavors inspired by an abundance of natural products and a dizzying array of spices. The curry is the lion's share. More spicy than in India, it is suitable for many sauces, often based on coconut milk and sambol (condiment with red peppers). But the island has many other specialties: appa or hoppers (crepes made from rice flour), cakes of all kinds, kiribath (rice cake) or wattalapam (caramel cream). Over the centuries, the local culinary traditions have also been enriched by innumerable foreign influences, from vadai and other Tamil dosa to Turkish rotty and pittu , to colonial influences such as Dutch tipple , tea or coffee. English.

Good places - The big hotels have some outstanding restaurants where you will be able to test the best of Sri Lankan gastronomy. At the other end of the spectrum, some unpretentious guest-houses can serve you excellent home cooking at unbeatable prices. But the quality is likely to vary completely, even at the highest level, and once out of Colombo, true gastronomy becomes rare. The recent opening of a handful of ambitious establishments in cities such as Galle and Bentota, however, should change the game, offering upscale dining, often in memorable settings (colonial buildings, beachfront). For now, the main destination of gourmets undoubtedly remains Colombo: the restaurants devoted to Sri Lankan specialties are there alongside establishments with Chinese, Thai, Italian, Swiss and other cards. The city is also the ideal place for those who want to eat simply, in Sri Lankan, in small kottu rotty cafes - sometimes mistakenly called "hotels" - or friendly South Indian restaurants strictly vegetarian, where the plenty of dosa , idli and uttapam are offered at low prices.

Rice and curry - In Sri Lanka, we do not talk about curry, but rice and curry. A national dish, this mountain of rice is accompanied by meat curry and / or assorted vegetables, various condiments and a handful of poppadum (chips). Sri Lankans grow more than 15 varieties of rice, from tiny translucent white grains to long grain basmati to kakuluhaal red. To enjoy a rice-curry, the use requires that you roll a rice dumpling in the spices, gently kneading the mixture between his fingers to mix the flavors. The curry rice served in the best hotels is a good example of this basic, with the rice plate being accompanied by 5 dishes or even more (up to 15). You will discover a range of textures and flavors as vast as contrasted, meat and fish spicy pineapple, sweet potatoes and eggplants, often complemented by an assortment of vegetables and fruits more exotic - murunga (kind of okras), aluminum kesel (banana plantain), jak (jaque) - and more traditional regional ingredients, not to mention the mallung (pot of green vegetables and grated coconut with turmeric). You will be served with a bowl of dhal , some crisp poppadum and one or two plates of sambol .

Sambol - No Sri Lankan curry rice is conceived without its sambol , which adds a touch of flavor (and heat) to the dish. The basic ingredient is pepper, finely chopped or powdered. The result may surprise, and it is better to use with care - first taste a small dose before flooding your plate. In the event of an unintentional fire, a mouthful of rice will refresh you much faster than water. The least elaborate sambol , called lunu miris , contains powdered chilli, onions, Maldive fish (dried and salted tuna in the sun, with a very strong taste) and salt. Add some finely grated coconut and you get the very classic pol sambol - some of which will prefer the bitter-sweet flavors of seeni sambol .

Foreign influences - The Dutch, who had already sharpened their taste buds thanks to Indonesian cuisine, quickly seduced by the local cuisine, from which they drew the famous lamprais (derived from the Dutch lomprijst ): a portion of rice wrapped in its sheet plantain and generously seasoned with a variety of flavors - possibly a bittersweet aubergine purée, shrimp paste, a piece of chicken or mutton and a sambol twist . Tie it all down, put it in a gentle oven, and you get a dish that's always appreciated, in the restaurant or take-out. Successive generations of Tamils ​​have imported another sustainable culinary tradition, that of South India. You will find great classics such as dosa (rice cakes in all forms, starting with the masala dosa , filled with a spicy curry of potato), the uttapam (other type of rice cake, more thick), or the idli (steamed cakes with curry). Another great Tamil classic adopted by all Sri Lankans without exception, vadai is a spicy snack made from pan-fried lentils that you will find on board trains and buses, served by itinerant vendors. Arabian cuisine has also spread across the island, including rotty - often spelled roti or roti , but not to be confused with roti or Indian chapati , which you will also see here at the best restaurants menu. North India. This soft pancake rolls up small portions of vegetable curry - watch the dexterity of the cook when he kneads the dumplings, stretches them into sheets of cigarette paper, then folds them. The rotty also chops into large noodles for frying, accompanied by any ingredient that the chef has deemed worthy to embellish his kottu rotty of the day. To discover the masters in the matter, let yourself be guided along the streets by the sound of the chopper. Malaysian Muslims also introduced pittu , a kind of couscous made from rice flour and grated coconut that is steamed in a bamboo stick - or aluminum foil. Sri Lankans consume it at breakfast or - more and more - as a substitute for rice at dinner.

Appa and indiappa - The appa , called hoppers in English, are among those simple dishes raised to the rank of gastronomic stars. Their delicate and soft texture brings them closer to the pancake. They are eaten at breakfast or in the evening, as snacks. The authentic appa dough contains coconut milk and toddy (palm alcohol) and must rest overnight, while the fermentation takes place. Instant preparations now allow many cooks to overcome a long preparation. The egg hopper , an appa topped with an egg, can be savored by detaching the crispy top of the appa and plunging it into the egg yolk - a real treat. Not related to the appa , the indiappa or string hoppers are nests of rice vermicelli boiled over low heat. You will see them most often served at breakfast with a sambol curry.

Fish and seafood - All along the coast, you will find in abundance a great variety of fish and seafood: skipjack or bonito, shark, seer (kind of mackerel), mullet or herring, pomfret (sea bream) or amberjack, of unequivocal freshness as long as you do not go away from the ports. Simplicity dominates, whether you prefer grilled fish or breaded, fried or marinated in a garlic sauce. The fish curry, always very popular, is prepared most often in a kiri hodhi sauce - made with coconut milk. Some notes of dried fish or shellfish (shrimp, in particular) will add their pronounced flavors to your curry - the Maldive fish remains the most common. The best crustaceans usually come from the Negombo lagoon, with lots of crabs, lobsters, and huge, juicy tiger prawns (gambas). And Sri Lankans love nothing more than sitting in front of a plate of crustaceans devilled (in hot pie) or prepared in garlic sauce - the chili crab has its fans.

Sweet beaks - Gourmands will appreciate the buffalo curd , a creamy yoghurt, often accompanied by its kitul , caramel thick sauce - taken from the sap of the palm tree of the same name. It will be served as a dessert, but nothing prevents you from making a light breakfast, or the perfect antidote to a too spicy food. Inspired by malaise, wattalapam is a rich coconut-flavored caramel cream, made from cashew nuts and jaggery (unrefined sweetener based on kitul ), and has become a national cake. Another typical local dessert, kiribath reminds the rice cake, a little more sticky. It is cut in rhombuses and served at weddings or other festive occasions.

Fruit galore - pineapple, passion fruit, pomegranates, papayas, avocados, mangos, guavas of various kinds, bananas of about ten varieties - the stalls are full of local fruits. Taste the mangosteen, the purple dress and the delicate grape flavor, or the tasty rambutan, a kind of red and hairy mandarin, whose flesh resembles that of lychee. Or again, with sapodilla and star flesh, lovi-lovi , a kind of red cherry, and strange wood apple ( Limonia ), with indestructible bark, and usually served with honey to mitigate the bitterness of its bright red pulp. Finally, discover the durian, a huge thorny green fruit, pollinated by bats, and whose repulsive scent of polecat hides a flesh with the delicious flavor of nougat - and a halo of a strong local reputation of aphrodisiac. Even bigger than the durian - it's the biggest fruit on the planet - the jaque looks like a gourd-doped squash, and its pulp is eaten raw or as a side dish in a curry.

Drinks - Along the roads, vendors armed with machetes offer their stacks of thambili , golden coconut. You will see mostly in the South-West, where most of the 10 million coconut trees grown in Sri Lanka grow. The coconut milk can drink you well if you doubt the quality of the local water - you will not find more hermetically sealed container ... - or if the vapors of the arrack swallowed the day before you still fog. The essential drink remains the toddy . Extracted from the coconut blossom, it can be enjoyed fresh, and is similar to a fruit juice. Fermented, it is alcoholic like cider. Once distilled, the toddy turns into arrack , a kind of rum widely used in punches and cocktails, or added coca, lemonade or soda of any kind - but also consumed pure, with or without moderation. Beer lovers will find blonde everywhere - including Lion and Three Coins, the main local brands, with a Carlsberg brewed on the island - and at very low prices. Paradoxically, Sri Lanka is not the place to enjoy a good cup of tea. The best of the production is exported, and you will often have to content yourself with simple sachets, served with milk powder. Coffee, on the other hand, usually comes from small local plantations, but is less likely to disappoint you.

Restoration

Cuisine - Sri Lankan cuisine offers a range of flavors and aromas based on local ingredients and has been inspired for centuries by Indian, Chinese, Arab, Malay and European culinary traditions.

Rice curry : consumed 3 times a day by many Sri Lankans, the famous curry rice is a pillar of the local diet. It is a curry of meat, fish or vegetables, enhanced with a powerful combination of spices: peppers, cinnamon, lemongrass, curry leaves ( kaloupilé ), coriander, caraway, saffron, tamarind or coconut . Like Sri Lankans, carry food to your mouth using only the fingers of your right hand.

On the run : you'll quickly become hooked on local dishes, starting with string hoppers ( appas ) and other egg hoppers ( idi appas ). " Short eats " are small donuts or patties stuffed with beef, fish, chicken or vegetables - add a zest of sambol (grated concentrate of grated coconut, peppers and various spices) if you really want to know hell. Chops, patties (vegetable donuts) and other great Sri Lankan classics are omnipresent in canteens, even the most modest ones.

Desserts : Lovers of milk desserts will order a bowl of English cream topped with treacle (syrup). The other gourmands will test wattalapam , pudding with jaggeree (or jaggery ), molasses based kitul treacle (palm sap).

Festivals : On the occasion of the Sinhalese or Tamil (or other holiday) New Year, Sri Lankans are preparing for kiribath . This dish of rice with coconut milk is accompanied by a flamboyant sauce of onions and spices, or bananas and jaggeree at breakfast.

Drinks : Imported drinks (wines, beers, spirits) are relatively expensive, but you will find some local beers at a low price. At aperitif time, impossible to escape the inevitable cocktail sri lankais, based on arrack , alcohol (strong) made from the distillation of coconut flowers. Among the non-alcoholic drinks is thambili (coconut milk), another local star highly appreciated by tourists. A healthy and not ruinous drink, sold along the roads and on the beaches. Typically Sri Lankan, the refreshing ginger beer is a ginger flavored soda.

Restaurants - Apart from Colombo, there are relatively few good independent restaurants. You will most often have your meals at your hotel or guesthouse, which almost all offer a catering service - from an anonymous international buffet to tasty traditional home cooking. Most of the best-known restaurants in the country are housed in major hotels, and some offer you exceptional cuisine with a luxurious setting. Be aware however that some modest guesthouses will offer you the unique opportunity to discover authentic Sri Lankan homemade cuisine at unbeatable prices. Sri Lankans, on the other hand, prefer small, unpretentious cafes (often called "hotels") lined up on the main street of the smallest town. These establishments offer a basic menu of simple curry rice, some " short eats ", sometimes a kottu rotty evening or hoppers . If street food remains less prevalent than in India, you will sometimes see vendors warming vadais and other dishes in front of their cart or offering spicy peanuts and snacks on board buses.