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Gastronomy

Like most things in Nepal, the cuisine draws inspiration from the two sides of the Himalayas. From tea stalls to palatial restaurants, both in the east and in the west of the country, you will be spotted with Indian spices, echoes of Chinese recipes and a scent of Tibetan hardiness. The cuisine is often defined in relation to altitude, and the diet changes with the elevation of the Himalayan slopes: pickles in the Indian and traces of Mughal influences in the Terai with crushed barley and butter tea trans-Himalayan.

Basic Seeds - Rice grows in the Terai and Pahar, or Hill Region, and is the staple food of the Nepalese. No dish is more common in the country than dal bhat (lentils and rice), whose consistency without relief has earned the country an unflattering culinary reputation among travelers. Served in a large metal dish, the dal bhat is usually accompanied by a ladle of tarkari (vegetable curry) and a few achaar (pickles). With locals and high-end restaurants, it's all-too-tasty - but do not expect anything at a truck or trekking lodge. Since rice does not grow at high altitude, maize takes over on the southern slopes. Pounded into a sticky paste called dhindo , it is served with meat or vegetables. Still higher, on the other side of the great Himalayan passes and the arid shadow of the northern slopes, the solid Tibetan tsampa (porridge or meatballs), based on barley, appears.

Newar Cuisine - The Kathmandu Valley, the country's historic heartland, has seen the most refined Nepalese cuisine developed among the humble villagers and the majestic kitchens of the nobility. Elaborate and spicy - cumin, coriander and turmeric - it bears witness to an obvious Indian influence, though less uplifting and less rich than the cuisine served in India. Peppers are used sparingly. Sometimes called baji , chiura , a major ingredient of any Newar meal, is a round grain rice that has been boiled and then sun-dried before being crushed into very fine flakes. This process has been developed to facilitate conservation and save fuel: the chiura is kept for months and can be consumed without new cooking, in any meal - a Newar breakfast often comes down to chiura mixed with tea or coffee. cream to form a kind of crispy porridge. The main meal, usually taken in the afternoon, often combines chiura , soy and other beans, and boiled potatoes with garlic and ginger. The Newar use only their right hand for food; sitting cross-legged on the floor, they make up a large circle at parties or family reunions, those in charge of the service keeping the plates filled with chiura and a wide variety of meats and vegetables. The Newar - and the Nepalese in general - are much less vegetarian than their Indian, Hindu and Buddhist neighbors. If they are reluctant to eat beef, buffalo meat is not a problem for them. The Newar love chhowela - buffalo or chicken marinated with spices and cooked in a terracotta oven, the tandoor . They accompany their dishes with several types of bread, including the bara , a thick and fluffy lentil flour pancake, and the chatamari, the Newar version of the pizza - a buffalo chopped tomato on a thin slab of rice flour. The incessant holiday round is accompanied by family meals Pantagruelelic. Wild boars are honored on special occasions such as Shivaratri, and a traditional wedding meal has no less than 84 dishes. Bourgeois homes or chic restaurants in Kathmandu reserve sumptuous Newar feasts. At a more modest level, you will be able to taste some specialties in street stalls; starting with the must-have momo , meat or vegetable ravioli steamed and served with chilli sauces or cilantro sauces. Tibetan merchants introduced the momo into the valley, and the Newar were quick to adopt them.

Tibetan cuisine - In the arid world of the northern Himalayas, Indian spices have never penetrated and rice has long remained an exotic plant, native to tropical and distant lands. The development of the local cuisine has obeyed the need to fight against the cold and find food in a region where agriculture is difficult and where winter temperatures plunge well below zero: Tibetan food meets the same constraints than those of all cold countries. Tibetan dishes are found in mountain cuisine such as Mustang, Khumbu and Dolpo. Trans-Himalayan traders have also shared their taste for soups and noodles in Newar, and more recently, Tibetan refugees have introduced their strong mountain diet into the Hill Region and Terai. The authentic Tibetan diet is based on tsampa (crushed barley), sometimes with a strong fragrant tea yak butter - salty and not sweet. Tibetans have also borrowed the art of making noodles from the Chinese, but with a more rustic twist. Apart from the ubiquitous momo , Tibetan thupka has conquered Nepal. This variation on noodle soup usually includes chopped vegetables and noodles, chicken or buffalo meat. Particularly stimulating, thenthuk , thicker than thupka , is embellished with large squares of pasta.

Desserts - Nepalese take sweets and draw heavily on traditional Indian desserts. In the cities, confectioneries offer a colorful array of candies neatly stacked behind a glass counter and served on small metal dishes or in takeaway boxes. Try burfi , a great Indian and Nepali classic; caramel milk flavored with cardamom, it is served cut into a diamond and sometimes decorated with a thin sheet of silver (edible). The rasbari is also made from milk, heated and cut with a little vinegar, then filtered: the solid residue is rolled into pellets. We will present them as dhudhbari , impregnated with a cream scented with rose water, saffron, cardamom or pistachio. Another dairy product spread throughout the country, curd is used as an ingredient or consumed as is. It is often made from cow's milk, but its most popular version, juju dhau , from Bhaktapur, or king curd , comes from buffalo milk. Its creaminess evokes milk jam.

A cup of chiya - From Kathmandu's fairways to Annapurna villages, the tea stall is an institution. Born in South China, tea has taken various trade routes all over the planet; in most languages ​​it is either the Fujianese or the Cantonese cha . In Nepalese, the national drink is called chiya . It is prepared with 2 equal measures of water and milk brought to a boil. Black tea leaves and spices - cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, pepper or star anise - are discarded, then the beverage is filtered and served in a small glass.

Restoration

Cuisine - The traveler who arrives in Nepal often does not expect much of the local cuisine, outside the eternal momos and other dal bhat . Certainly, Nepalese gastronomy can not compete with many Chinese or Indian specialties. On the other hand, the adventurous gourmet should still be able to discover some interesting flavors.
Tourist restaurants punctuate their " world food " cards with some Nepali dishes. But to try authentic flavors, choose the small local canteens overlooking the street, or dine at one of those fine Newar restaurants that have been flourishing in Kathmandu for a few years now.
Hungry hippies and hungry mountain dwellers have long been launching pizza and pasta fashion in Kathmandu and Pokhara. Be aware, however, that current restaurants offer international cuisine of very good quality. If the standard tourist map juggles the world's specialties, from Korean dishes to Mexican recipes, the best tables tend to choose a specialty ... and stick to it. In Thamel (Kathmandu) and Lakeside (Pokhara) some excellent Italian, Thai or Oriental restaurants sit side by side with the Viennese bakeries, with their breads, strudels and chocolate cakes.
On the big trekking trails, lodge owners go out of their way to follow this international cuisine trend, and along the Annapurna circuit, apple pie rivals the dal bhat . On less traveled trails, however, do not expect to break with the monotonous cycle of rice and lentils.
Nepali coffees, called bhojanalayas , offer simple dishes - rice, dal (lentil soup), boiled vegetables and condiments, a formula served at will for the hungry. Nepalese use only the right hand, mixing the different ingredients in their fingers, but if you ask, we should be able to find a chamchah (spoon) somewhere.
As for stalls open to all winds, the simplest dishes - momos (steamed donuts stuffed with minced buffalo meat or vegetables), grilled corn or brochettes - are often served in dried leaves, a very ecological practice!
In the great restaurants of Kathmandu, the change of atmosphere is radical. Most offer a range of Nepali dishes complemented by fresh local Newar dishes, often made with chiura (flakes of rice). Tasting menus will allow you to test several dishes and explore new flavors - without taking too many risks. In the most upscale Nepali and Newar restaurants, music and traditional dances sometimes complement the meal.

Drinks - Indian masala tea has emerged in Nepal as a national drink under the name of chiya . The spice blend that gives the chiya its specific flavor is composed of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, ginger, star anise, pepper and nutmeg. Tea leaves, milk, sugar and spices heat most often in the same kettle (but you can ask for " milk separate ").
In the high mountains, you will probably find Tibetan tea with yak butter - a black tea salted and mixed with yak butter. The first sips can surprise the delicate taste buds; but the mountaineers have never found better to fight against the cold glacial mountain passes.
Stronger drinks are not lacking either, and the taboos that affect alcohol consumption in some neighboring countries do not seem to affect Nepal. The most common drink, available in the most infamous road cafe, is chhang , barley or millet beer. Milky in appearance, she lets herself drink, but turns her head very quickly, despite its microscopic price (about 10 Rs a glass). The local spirits - arak (potato alcohol) or rakshi (rice or wheat alcohol) -, much stronger, are consumed in large quantities.
Expats will tend to prefer bottled beers on site - Tuborg, San Miguel or Nepal Ice. Small pharmacies sell rum, gin and other locally distilled spirits, while upscale supermarkets import a wide range of alcoholic beverages. The red and white wines produced in Nepal will not leave you with unforgettable memories.

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